This is a very basic and simple design.
Alter measurements to fit your personal preferences.
From the bottom up:
feet: 4] 15″ 1×3
feet: 4] 3.75″ 1×3
sides: 2] 4′ 1×8. Cut tops to preferred angle. (four feet is quite tall – I suggest you measure an existing shtender to confirm your preferred height)
footrest supports: 2] triangular 7.5″ pieces of 3/4″ plywood, cut to the desired footrest angle (i.e. .5″ x 7.5″ x 1.5″)
footrest: 1] 16.5″ 1×8
shelf: 1] 16.5″ 1×8
shelf lip: 18″ 1×2
shelf back: 1] 18″x12″ plywood (or 18″ 1×12 shelving pine)
top 1] 14″x20″ 3/4″ plywood
top lip: 1] 20″ quarter-round molding (height your preference)
1) the 1×8 side pieces will fit vertically into the rectangular hole.
Use carpenter’s glue on all joined surfaces.
The bottom of the side pieces should be flush with the bottom of the feet.
Make sure the side pieces are vertical when the feet are on a straight floor.
use 2″ screws, since the total width of the feet will be 2.25″
The feet will look as follows, viewed from above:
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the outer layers are the 15″ 1×3’s, the inner layer is the 3.75″ 1×3’s with a 7.5″ gap for the vertical pieces.
2) glue and screw the angled 7.5″ pieces of plywood to the inside of the side pieces, resting on the feet.
use 1.25″ screws
3) glue & screw the footrest into place. you can drop a couple of screws from the top of the footrest into the angled plywood, and a couple of screws thru the sides into the footrest’s ends. Keep in mind that you dont want to split the wood, and end-grain isn’t that strong, so I’d use 1.25″ screws from the side & 1 5/8″ screws from the top.
Once the footrest is fastened, make sure the side pieces are vertical when the feet are on a straight floor.
4)Fasten the shelf back on the outside of the verticals at the top of the back of the shtender.
(the shelf back and shelf will add strength and rigidity to the shtender even if you don’t keep anything in there.)
Use 1.25″ screws and glue.
5) Fasten the shelf. use 1.25″ screws.
6) Fasten the shelf lip. use 1.25″ screws.
7) fasten the top lip to the top from underneath. Use screws that are long enough to secure the lip, but short enough that they won’t penetrate its top. you may want to sand the ends of the molding first for a more rounded appearance.
8) center the top and fasten it. some people put a small piece of wood at the angle between the top and side pieces and screw the top and sides into those to avoid having the top screwed only into end-grain. if possible, use 1 5/8″ screws, otherwise use 1 1/4″ screws.
tips:
-Sinking the screw-heads slightly below the wood’s surface will allow you to fill the holes and stain or paint them.
-you can cover ugly plywood edges with molding or iron on / press on edging that can be stained or painted.
-you can cut small 45-degree angles on the foot-tops to eliminate the corners.
-you can carve shallow .75″ notches for the footrest and shelf using a router and the appropriate bit with an angle guide. if you do this, make the notches very shallow, so as not to weaken the sides.
-the shelf back and lip can be placed inside the sides if you prefer. adjust the size by the 1.5″ thickness of the two sides.
-examine the lumber to ensure it’s straight, not full of knots, etc.
-don’t use redwood. it looks nice, but is soft and light.
You may have more fun experimenting and trying more elaborate designs and woods, like “Dr. Pepper” did.
As always, be careful and use goggles when using power tools.
Any questions? please ask.