Reply To: Miscellaneous Electric Tips

squeak-

In all probability, there is a third box in play here. It may be a fixture box, a switch/outlet box or a junction box.

Here are a couple of possibilities:

A = a third box.

B = switch box.

C = Fixture box

S = switch

O = fixture

x = splice

???? = white wire

???? = black wire

A      B

?????? ??????

??x??????S  ?

??x x?????  ?

?????? ??????

??????

? ? ??C

? O???

??????

(For simplicity’s sake, the above sketch omits the unused third conductor and the ground wires.)

The electricity flows from the left thru the black wire into “A”, thru the splice to switch box “B”, to switch “S”, back thru the white wire into “A”, thru the splice into the black wire into fixture box “C”, thru fixture “O”, thru the white wire back into “A”, thru the splice into the white wire and to the neutral bus bar.

Another possibility is that the switch in “B” and the fixture in “C” switch places. If this is the case, the fixture will always be hot.

If my diagram is correct, you can determine if the switch or the fixture is in “B” by using a neon tester on the fixture when the switch is in the “off” position.

In either of these scenarios you won’t be able to separately control the light via a wall switch and the fan via a pull-cord since neither “B” nor “C” has both a hot and a neutral.

What you’ll need to do is run a three-conductor cable from the fixture box (whether it’s “B” or “C”) to box “A”.

This will guarantee that the fixture box has both a true hot and neutral (for the fan) and a separate hot for the light that the switch controls.

If I’m not being clear on any point please don’t hesitate to ask.